To erysipelas[vive]
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The explosion of shoe mode it was necessary to the beginning of century. Beginning of century – time of revolutions. Revolution in the woman’s clothing began from the skirts, whose hem since 1915 rose increasingly above and it is above. Shoes became the important part of the toilet. In the middle of the 20′s the gold time of shoemakers came. In Paris will shine Andre [Perudzha], his creations attract attention great [Puare]. In the Florence- black tar paint [Ferragamo]. To erysipelas [Vive] at this time only began its way. To nine years it became an orphan and grew in the house of well-off aunt along the maternal line. Participation in settings of the theater of the Parisian region Of [belvil] serious ended in no way. But interest in the bright peace of scene and its inhabitants remained forever. In 17 years [Vive] entered into the Parisian school of the fine arts, where it was occupied by sculpture and simultaneously sketched fashionable at that time man shawls. But the masterpieces painted by water color lived only until the first washing.
One of the friends, gave to it work at its shoe factory. Young person rapidly mastered the bases of craft, and soon to him they already entrusted the development of new models. When in 1926 20-year [Vive] finally decided to dedicate itself to the creation of foot-wear, its selection was more than comprehended: it already much knew how and he knew, what to disappear lies between concept and possibility of its embodiment. Enthusiasm by scene, friendship with the artists and the theatrical artists proved to be not only pleasant, but also advantageous. [Vive] begins to sew foot-wear to order for such variety stars as [Mistingett] Josephine Becker. With the such famous clients he is simply doomed to the reputation. Soon unattainable [Perudzha] itself was forced to yield to him the part of its Parisian clientele.
In 1937 to erysipelas [Vive] opens its own studio with the store. Among the customers – important shoe firms – Pine, Salamander, Rain, Delman. But mass mode is still forged by conditionalities and is conservative, traditional shoe colors – black, dark-blue and brown. It is necessary to search for a compromise between the artistic fantasy, with taste and the need for supporting demand for its articles.
At the beginning war [Vive] is already widely known not only in Europe, but also in Australia, Republic of South Africa, Egypt and America. Here- that it will leave before occupation itself, after carrying out during the first years of war its military duty and after having time (together with well-known by writer Gertrude [Stayn]) to one of the last ships, which take away emigrants into the new light. In peaceful New York there are many potential clients, but also cannot be here worked. The commission for industrial production created in the war assumes the law, which limits the production of clothing and foot-wear. There is no material, the skin goes for the needs of army. [Vive] works as the assistant of photographer Harper `s of [Khayningena]- Huene Bazaar, and then together with Susannah Ramey is opened hatters [butik] on the Madison- avenue. After returning in 1947 to Paris, it captivates by the ideas of Christian [Dior], who recently proclaimed the style of new-look. Forged by contract conditions from Delman, [Vive] is ready “to begin on the throat to its own song” and to make for [Diora] at least of hat, but this place is occupied. It continues to sketch the sketches of foot-wear for the American factories, and meanwhile the mannekins of the house Of christian Of dior march in the shoes [Ferragamo] and [Perudzhi]. It is easy whether this to carry out? The situation changed in the course of time. Because of the exclusive agreement with the American firm appeared, created specially for To [vive], the stamp Of christian Of dior- Of delman, and since 1955 also for seven years to the end of the period of contract with the house Of dior, [Vive] will sign its models Of christian Of dior-Roger Of vivier, after becoming the only designer, whose name brilliant modeller agreed to place next to his. The history of great footwear industry worker here strictly and begins. Here when it can finally return to its prewar billets and give the freedom of fantasy.
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Tags: erysipelas, shoemakers, shoes








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